return to an elegant shape

here is a simple cheesecake, made of a combination of mascarpone, goat, and traditional cream cheese. accompaning it are candied kumquats with pink peppercorns and a quenelle of shiso ice cream. the cheesecake is formed in a disk, though could have been a square or a bar; the kumquats are halved but show their own natural oval shape, though they could have been sliced in rings or julienned. its the ice cream that stands out for me. back to the one spoon quenelle.

i've named this site after that phrase (or action) because as a pastry chef i feel bound to it yet always want to escape from it. every other component on a dish could take on another shape, yet the quenelle remains. i guess i could just use a round scoop but my training/instincts tell me it is not refined enough. how do i move on from it? i see that shape as my inspiration to continue to grow, to learn more, to adapt, improve. it tells me that shape has no flavor, yet perception does.

when something looks nice, it just seems to taste better.

we will see where we go from here.


nbalike said...
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nbalike said...
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Anonymous said...

Hi, I got here from Michael Laiskonis' blog. Your stuff looks fantastic! What is your role at L'Auberge? I live in SF, and I've now added Aubergine to my list of Bay Area restaurants to try.

You know, I'd really appreciate a simple tutorial on the one-spoon quenelle. I can make a passable two spoon quenelle, but the one spoon quenelles look so much more interesting. I recognize that you're trying to get past the one-spoon quenelle, but I'm not even there yet. I've searched the internet far and wide for a video, tutorial, or other information about quenelle-making, and have so far been unsuccessful. The closest I've come is the brief description from The French Laundry Cookbook. So, maybe you can teach us before moving on?

P.S. Your commenting system is requiring me to use openID, which doesn't allow me to link to my own website. Odd. I'm at

P.P.S. You should make a Nike Air Jordan inspired dish.

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