salad days

had a couple of diners tonight enjoying the tasting menu.  they both had dairy allergies, which makes it difficult for dessert, but even more so where the cheese course should be.  are there any dairy less cheeses?  didn't think so.
i jumped at the chance to make a transitional "salad" between the meat and dessert courses.
thought about the components and was really happy with the color scheme of greens and yellows.
it just looks light and fresh.
candied fennel with vanilla, compressed granny smith apples, celery ribbons, wood leaves and flowers, celery leaves, fennel fronds, and olive oil.
i did make them a vegan chocolate mousse using Herve This' technique that came out pretty good but forgot to take a picture.
maybe next time

are there rules?

i guess because i didn't really have a formal pastry training i feel as if i don't work within the standard "pastry chef" formats.  i try as often as i can to tell myself (and anyone else) that "there are no rules...only ratios and formulas". 

in keeping with winter flavors of apple, nuts, cider, gingerbread...i wanted to deliver them in a "non" pastry way, also stealing from the savory side (once again, a personal quest to outdo the savory team in pasta making) i decided to make apple-gingerbread agnolotti.  taking a cue from mister thomas keller it is a simple and flawless technique.  apples cooked sous vide, blended with dry gingerbread to make a thick puree fill the pasta.  they are frozen and cooked a la minute and basted in an apple juice beurre monte.  pickled apples, dried amoretti cookie crumbs, marzipan ice cream, apple cider foam, and fennel fronds.

the flavors are dessert, but i hope the technique and presentation give the savory team a run for their money. or maybe sometimes i just want to cook on the "hot side".

tartare for dessert?

there is something magical about the transformation of quince.  from the pale, raw, nearly unedible fruit we begin with to the sweet, red-caramelized fruit we end up with, i can't help but be amazed at nature and what it produces.  most commonly made into membrillo, quince has so much pectin and such a wonderful aroma i am still surprised that many guests are unfamilliar with it. 
tossing the fruit in sugar, a sprinkle of orange zest and a douse of orange juice, a low temperature roast in the oven gives me the final red jam-like fruit i desire.  in looking at the diced fruit i was reminded of tomatoes or even tuna...which led me to a "tartare" style plate.  on a thin buttery sable, warmed chopped quince drizzled with olive oil is spread out.  what i like about traditional tartares is how the garnishes are spread about the main component so with every bite you pick up different flavor profiles.
candied meyer lemon peel, pomegranite seeds, spherified creme fraiche (to mimic the quail egg effect), whipped apple juice with earl grey tea, green apple sorbet, and apple croquant.

the tastes are what i want, the components come together nice, the presentation could be a little more refined and i definately need a new camera

like water for....

i always try to remind myself there are no rules in cooking...only the rules of science. early on doing pastry i learned that when a recipe calls for water that water can mean a multitude of things. juices, purees, infusions and so on. in making the caramelized brioche by soaking it in an almond syrup i decided to make the syrup from the juices leftover out of making the sous vide apple confit. it was an intense apple syrup with a hint of almond. after about 20 minutes in the oven, the sugars caramelized, the brioche had an outer crispiness while the interior was creamy with the flavor of apples and almonds. i would love to go into a pastry shop and buy a dozen of these.

Apples & Apples

still hoping for something new in the market. these apples won't last forever. here are apples cooked sous vide with simple syrup for about 2 hours. when they are compressed with the syrup they take on a wonderful translucent look. they are cooked slowly until tender without losing much shape. brioche is soaked in an almond syrup and roasted in the oven until it caramelizes. in the Ducasse pastry book it is named a bostock. traditionally spread with almond cream, i made a lighter almond milk pudding to add a la minute. a green apple ice cream and cinnamon milk foam finish the dish.