trompe le monde

sometimes it is all about appearances. 
watching top chef last night was quite interesting.  the quickfire challenge was to create a dish that was visually appealing and would be judged on looks alone.  it was interesting how the "savory" chefs conceptualized that idea. 
i think within the sweet world, that is always a factor.  mainly in part because most of what we put on the plate we make ourselves.  if i make a bavarois, i have to think about how i want it to look before i even begin to make the recipe.
 the shape, the mold, the size. 
in stating that, how do we move beyond our ordinary perceptions of what "the shape, the mold" should be.
without rambling on too much, i will eventually get where i want to go...

here is the chocolate cremeux recipe i have been using for awhile:
180g  72% Valrhona Araguani
400g  cream
 70g  glucose
70g  water
1.2g  agar
2 gelatin sheets
bring water and agar to boil, reserve warm
simmer cream and glucose, emulsify with chocolate little by little
add softened gelatin sheets, add water/agar mixture, emulsify

usually this is poured into a mold or onto a tray and cut, but this time i wanted to try for a different look.

i wanted to give the appearance of something solid, like stone, when really it is creamy and melts in the mouth.
cremeux poured on a tray, frozen, broken, then tempered.
earl grey ice cream, kumquats, kumquat croquant, tangerine sauce, cocoa paper, wood sorrel, chocolate streusel

the sweets

i was craving something sweet and gooey.  the one thing that i think rises to the top of that definition is the english sticky toffee pudding.  a cake made with brown sugar, butter, dates, beer, and soaked in a brown sugar/butter toffee sauce.  could it get more gooey and sweet. 

at the market there is a lady who sells wonderfully plump dates.  next to her is another lady selling kumquats.  what luck, within four square feet are the makings of a dish.  dates with a bitter orange flavor lead me to pistachios which guide me to cardamom and the flavors are done.
the toffee pudding cake is warmed to order and soaked in the toffee sauce.  kumquats are blanched and candied with vanilla.  green pistachios are chopped.  some of the kumquats are pureed and to it passion fruit juice is added to balance out the flavor and give some acidity.  that is made into a sauce and a croquant.  an eggless cardamom ice cream adds a cool creamy texture.  finish with a chiffonade of shiso.